Have you ever had a peel? Do you know the effect it has on the skin? Depending on the active ingredient and its concentration, acids can help rejuvenate, remove blemishes, whiten the skin, and combat excessive oil production.
The main function of acids is to exfoliate and cause a flaking , like a “skin change.” This removes dead cells, prevents pimples and blackheads and combats existing ones. Acids are beneficial for the dermis, stimulating the production of collagen and elastic fibers, leaving a firmer texture, smoothing wrinkles and, in some cases, even removing dark skin patches.
Types of Acids for the skin
- Phytic: antioxidant and bleach, it is found in the seeds of plants and the grains of some cereals.
- Boric: it has an antiseptic function and appears in the formulations of tonic and astringent lotions.
- Phenol: through a deep exfoliation, it fights the signs of extreme aging . It is painful and requires the application of local anesthesia.
- Hyaluronic : it is naturally present in our body, tightens and softens the skin ( this cream is a marvel for this) . From the age of 30 its production falls and replacement is necessary through manipulated creams.
- Malic: extracted from the leaves of the apple, it leaves the skin lush, lightens blemishes and smooths wrinkles. It is found in processed or manipulated creams.
- Mandelic: exfoliating and whitening, softens open pores and can be used in peels or creams.
- Resorcinol: used in creams or peels, it is indicated for acne treatments .
- Trichloroacetic acid (ATA): Used in peels , it removes the top layer of the skin, giving way to a new one. It has an aggressive effect, creating a scab that remains for about ten days, and then a new, very red and painful one develops. It is necessary to avoid the sun for three months.
- Azelaic: acid responsible for lightening freckles and melasmas (sun spots).
The most commonly used acids
Derived from vitamin A , it is considered effective in fighting acne and photoaging, making the skin firmer and more elastic . Its great advantage is the treatment of acne, aging from sunlight and recent stretch marks. Using before peeling, it thins and smoothes the skin, facilitating the penetration of the substance chosen for the procedure.
Its use is recommended in the winter, in peels or night creams . Initially, it will cause flaking and redness of the skin and you will need to protect yourself from the sun using an SPF greater than 15. More information on retinoic acid.
It is extracted from sugar cane and has great rejuvenation power, it acts as a chemical exfoliant. It can be used in summer and comes in the form of creams or peels. In addition to its moisturizing powers, it promotes a slight exfoliation of the superficial layer of the skin. This facilitates the penetration of other substances. It also accelerates cell renewal, leaving the skin smooth and even. It is used to treat acne scars, but its main indication is for photoaging and hydration of the face and body .
It can cause irritation in predisposed people, with allergic or sensitive skin. Lack of reaction to the sun should not be used as an excuse to go sunbathing. Due to its exfoliating action, the skin becomes more sensitive and thin, therefore, more susceptible to blemishes and irritations. Before exposure to the sun, you should wash your face to completely remove the acid and use a sunscreen SPF 15.
Kojic acid is a substance produced by a Japanese mushroom called Koji, which is also used in the fermentation of rice.
The advantage of kojic acid is that it is not photosensitive, that is, it does not stain the skin when it is exposed to sunlight . Therefore, it can be used even during the day. In addition to its depigmenting effect, kojic acid also acts as an antiseptic, preventing the proliferation of fungi and bacteria on the skin.
It also has antioxidant action, helping to prevent skin aging , and can be used in formulations together with glycolic acid, vitamin C and other active ingredients . The main disadvantage is that it is less potent than hydroquinone as a bleach, so results often take longer to appear.
Hydroquinone is the active ingredient most prescribed by dermatologists to treat skin blemishes. But it is not well tolerated: many people are allergic to this acid.
Hydroquinone is very effective in fighting skin blemishes and is present in several products.
It acts directly on melanocytes, hindering the chemical reaction of melanin formation (responsible for skin pigmentation). At the same time it breaks down the melanin-containing pockets within cells – and therefore has a dual action.
The action of hydroquinone is slow and results usually begin to appear only after 2 months of daily use of the product. It is very important to maintain strong protection against the sun and heat , because hydroquinone makes the skin more sensitive.
Necessary care with acids
As acids thin the skin, it is more vulnerable to the sun’s ultraviolet rays . Therefore, if you are doing an acid treatment, you must protect your skin from the sun constantly , using a sunscreen with a high protection factor in your day to day.
If you don’t want to avoid the sun (staying on the beach, for example), then you shouldn’t do these treatments. Wanting to treat the skin without giving up sun exposure is a contradiction, since the sun is the main responsible for aging.
If you respect the requirement of sun protection, acid treatments do not lead to aging, remove the opposite.
And girls, if you suffer from skin blemish problems, always protect it! Use sunscreen every day is very important!
It is important to also avoid soy products that contain phytoestrogens – hormones can exacerbate the problem.
As there is a wide variety of bleaching agents, it is essential to consult your dermatologist, as the treatment is long and difficult. You must make an assessment of the essential needs of your skin before applying any product.
Kathie Sand always saw the world of beauty as the terrain on which to build her professional career, a goal that was clear to her when she was only 15 years old. Her great concern to expand knowledge led her to settle in Paris where she studied hand in hand with the best beauty professionals and with the most advanced techniques for skin care.