I’ve been telling myself that the subtle lines around my eyes and my smile are all “frown lines,” and that I should attribute them to a life well lived and full of joy.
However. Whether you call them “smile lines” or “fine lines,” wrinkles are still wrinkles. I’m not ready to turn to Botox injections as a preemptive strike, but cosmetic outlets are starting to look attractive.
More and more products are being marketed as alternatives to botox – forget about the needle and the price of the clinic visit and instead go for a wrinkle-eliminating cream!
There are five main ingredients leading the way right now: Argireline, SNAP-8, Myoxinol, Syn-Ake, and Acmella Oleracea . But how do they work? And do they work?
Wrinkle reducing agents focus on the use of neuropeptides , or small protein-like molecules used by neurons to communicate with each other. Neuropeptides can be used to target cells, communicate with them, and get them to perform specific tasks, such as repairing and renewing aging skin cells by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin.
Our skin is naturally full of neuropeptides, but as we age, the count drops. While Botox smoothes wrinkles by paralyzing muscles through an injection of a solution derived from botulism toxin, topical “Botox” alternatives attempt to telephone cells to do the work themselves.
Index
Real anti-wrinkle ingredients
Cobiolift
COBIOLIFT is an innovative active ingredient with immediate lifting and anti-wrinkle effect, marked filmogenic and stretching effect, as shown in in vivo efficacy studies.
COBIOLIFT performs an immediate tightening and anti-wrinkle effect, lifting effect for instant beauty after 30 minutes. Forms a cohesive and continuous biological film: slows down TEWL that causes premature aging, retains moisture, protects skin from environmental stress and pollution.
It is the one that currently reduces wrinkles the most, up to 47% according to the invivo studies that exist
You can find it in the anti – wrinkle serum of Nezeni Cosmetics and the wrinkle cream Cosmetics Nezeni.
Argireline
It is the trade name for a synthetic hexapeptide. It goes beyond collagen production by limiting neurotransmitters that signal facial muscles to move (a process known as exocytosis). The idea is that if the nerves that send signals to the facial muscles are inhibited, subtle facial expressions will be limited and wrinkles will be reduced. The muscles will also be relieved of persistent tension and the skin will also relax. Although studies show that a concentration of 10% for 30 days can reduce the appearance of wrinkles by 30%, some scientists and cosmetologists seem to think that Argireline would be more effective in concentrations of up to 25%.
SNAP-8
It is an octapeptide, or the combination of 8 amino acids that are linked together to create a particular peptide. SNAP-8, created by Kinerase, is marketed as the second generation Argireline, and is said to be 30% more effective. According to studies (although published by Kinerase and apparently not supported by any independent researcher), they can reduce the depth and appearance of wrinkles by 34.9%.
Again, SNAP-8 is a muscle contraction inhibitor that reduces the depth of wrinkles on the face caused by contraction of the muscles of facial expression, especially in the forehead and around the eyes. It is believed to be a safer, cheaper, and gentler alternative to Botox, in part because it is more potent at lower concentrations.
Myoxynol
It is a compound created with oligopeptides obtained from the seeds of Hibiscus esculentus L. or okra. Okra seeds are powerful as they are rich in unsaturated fats, rich in AHAs, proteins, and amino acids, and they have many polysaccharides.
Myoxynol claims to work in a similar way to Botox, inhibiting the muscle movements responsible for all those precious wrinkles. The manufacturers of Myoxinol set out to demonstrate its efficacy by evaluating the number of facial contractions over a 24-hour period in a control group and a group using a topical cream containing Myoxinol. The study showed a significant decrease in facial muscle contractions, although the effect disappeared after 24 hours. Another test by the creators suggested a wrinkle prevention effect as well, stating that after 3 weeks it is worth it if the application, crow’s feet were 26% less noticeable.
Syn-Ake
Also known as Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl, it is a combination of neuropeptides with a name that has something of a bite to it. And it should! Syn-Ake mimics the venom in the viper snake, which causes muscle paralysis by inhibiting the entry of neurotransmitters at the muscle receptor site, destabilizing the cell so it cannot release neurotransmitters to make the muscle contract. However, “mimics” are rarely used, as Syn-Ake does not actually paralyze the muscle, but only includes the component that relaxes the muscles , known as Waglerin 1. It claims to fight fine lines, preventing future wrinkles from temporary form. weakening the muscle, preventing it from contracting, and therefore smoothing the lines in the wrinkle-prone area.
Acmella Oleracea
It is considered a natural alternative to Botox, and is extracted from a plant called Acmella Oleracea (scientists worked very hard with this clever name).
Acmella Oleracea is considered a natural muscle relaxant and has been traditionally used as a type of herbal Orajel, used to numb toothaches thanks to the presence of analgesic alkylamides called spilanthol. This spilanthol is believed to have the same paralyzing effects on the facial muscles as it does on the gums, reducing wrinkles by relaxing the skin.
It is seen in topical formulas and can easily penetrate the skin, inhibiting contractions in the subcutaneous muscles. However, Acmella Oleracea does not package the collagen building peptide of the usual ingredients.
It is contained in Kate Middleton’s biotulin .
Pros and cons of each of the ingredients
In general, all five ingredients aim to do the same; some shine brighter than the rest, however. Although Argireline is the tried and true ingredient of the bunch , it looks like SNAP-8 will surpass it as its main competition.
Myoxinol has the nice inclusion of Hibiscus esculentus L. and all of its own benefits, but in the end, its short-term effects and lack of independent research mean it has a long way to go before proving itself a strong contender.
Acmella Oleracea is a great natural ingredient, and it just deserves it, in addition to its strong clinical results but it has the downside of collagen.
If you are looking for a specific cosmetic product, I recommend that you read the following articles in which I analyze all the products at the INCI level:
