We have to analyze a multi-correction cream that hydrates, stimulates cell renewal and protects the skin from external aggressions.
It combines 3 new proprietary technologies you haven’t heard of: IFC-CAF, Wharton Gel Complex, and RetinSphere Technology. As you are surely wondering what they consist of, we go directly to the source of information, the INCI.
We are going to analyze all the ingredients to find out. Below I will give you a summary, give my opinion, and present a better alternative.
You cannot miss this Analysis of the Best Anti-Wrinkle Creams Recommended by Dermatologists , with everything you need to know about this cosmetic to clear up any doubts.
Index
Endocare Cellage Cream Prodermis Review
- Snail egg extract : The extract from the eggs of the garden snail, or Cornu aspersum. Snail slime is a fairly common ingredient that has good repair and hydration properties. As for the extract from their eggs, a 2015 study examined it in vitro (in the lab) and found promising regenerative properties for the skin. This extract appears to promote the production of extracellular matrix components (fibronectin, collagen 1, and MMPs) and also appears to improve cell survival after UVB irradiation. The study results are promising, but it may or may not work the same way when applied topically.
- Butyrospermum parkii butter : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics anti-wrinkle cream .
- Isostearyl isostearate : Analyzed in the Sesderma Reti Age eye contour .
- Potassium cetyl phosphate : Analyzed in the Vichy Liftactiv eye contour .
- Caprylic / Capric triglyceride : Tested in Clarins Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream as Caprylic / Capric Glycerides.
- Dimethicone : Tested in Shiseido Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Cetearyl alcohol : Analyzed in Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery contour
. - Glyceryl stearate : Analyzed in the Fiori di Cipria anti-wrinkle cream for men .
- Dimethyl isosorbide: Also called Arlasolve DMI or DMI. It acts primarily as a solvent and secondly as a viscosity reducing agent (thickness reduction). It can effectively penetrate the skin as it has the ability to dissolve the loose fat on the skin so that it can be transported through the skin membrane. Therefore, it is highly valued as a solvent due to its tendency to improve the delivery of other ingredients contained in a cosmetic formulation, even those that are soluble in water. In addition to improving the dermal penetration of a solution, it also lowers the concentration of active ingredients required to produce optimal results. This reduces the cost of the formulation and also decreases the possibility of irritation caused by aggressive active ingredients.
- Hydrogenated palm glycerides : A fatty acid component of palm oil, used as an emollient and skin conditioner. Hydrogenation allows the oily liquid to remain solid at room temperature.
- Cetearyl nonanoate : Ester used as an emollient. This product regulates the moisture content of the skin by forming a light hydrophobic film on the skin that protects it from dryness.
- Carapa guaianensis oil : Oil extracted from the seeds of the Amazonian tree carapa guianensis. Also known as andiroba oil. In cosmetics, it works mainly as an anti-inflammatory agent and a skin conditioner. The oil naturally contains limonoids, which have been shown to help renew skin and reduce inflammation. In addition, it is a rich source of essential fatty acids, including oleic, palmitic, stearic and linoleic acids. It helps to keep the intercellular structure of the epidermis intact and effectively keeps bacteria out, facilitates the skin’s healing process, prevents dermal irritation and regenerates the skin.
- Propylene glycol : Analyzed in the Revitalift Laser X3 eye contour from L’Oreal .
- Butylene glycol : Analyzed in Clarins Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Limnanthes alba seed oil : Analyzed in Shiseido Men’s wrinkle cream .
- Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables : Analyzed in the Clarins eye contour as Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract.
- Sodium cocoyl amino acids : The salt of hydrolyzed coconut amino acids. In cosmetics they are used as a mild surfactant.
- Potassium olivoyl / lauroyl wheat amino acids : The potassium salt of the condensation product of olivoyl chloride, lauroyl chloride and amino acids from Wheat. In cosmetics they are used as surfactant.
- Phenoxyethanol : Tested in Clarins Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Hydrolyzed umbilical extract : Extract of hydrolyzed umbilical cord material, human or animal. It is described as a hair and skin conditioning agent, although the umbilical extracts function as biological additives. Indeed, the uses and benefits of the umbilical cord appear to be poorly researched and documented. What is known is that cords are a source of stem cells, and I also found a laboratory that was testing a chain of amino acids derived from Wharton jelly, a jelly-like substance found in the umbilical cord. Warning: umbilical extract that is not specified as human is likely to be of animal origin (living or dead) and therefore not suitable for vegans.
- Xanthan gum : Analyzed in LOreal’s Vita Lift 5 anti-wrinkle cream .
- Ceramide NP : One of several types of ceramides that occur naturally, long chains of lipids (fats) that are the main components of the outer layers of the skin. Research shows that moisturizers containing NP ceramide can improve the look and feel of dry skin.
- Hydroxypinacolone retinoate : Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is the newest member of the retinoid family. It is an ester of retinoic acid, which means that it is directly related to retinoic acid. It is equally active as retinoic acid but without the irritation that it produces. Based on the manufacturer’s testing, 24 hours of an occlusive patch with an HPR of 0.5% resulted in significantly less irritation than 0.5% retinol. Additionally, there was a “dramatic reduction in lines and wrinkles” after applying 0.2% HPR around the eyes twice a day for 14 days. Keep in mind that these tests are biased. I have not been able to find anything about its anti-aging effectiveness, nor have I been able to find any studies dealing with HPR alone.
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate : Analyzed in SkinMedica’s Dermal Repair Cream .
- Diaminopropionoyl tripeptide-33 : Also known as Preventhelia, a tetrapeptide specifically identified to combat the damaging effects of UV radiation on human skin. The new peptide is born from preventive cosmetics: it works by eliminating SCR and preventing photoaging of the skin. The effectiveness of Preventhelia in protecting the skin from the effects of UV exposure has been demonstrated by several in vitro tests. It has been able to inhibit the formation of carbonyl proteins as a result of oxidative stress, and it has demonstrated photoprotective properties in different types of skin cells. Its DNA repair and protective activity has also been tested.
- Retinol : Analyzed in the Sesderma Reti Age eye contour .
- Magnolia officinalis bark extract: Magnolia bark extract containing two anti-inflammatory substances, magnolol and honokiol, which are said to be up to 1000 times more potent in antioxidants than vitamin E. The anti-inflammatory properties of magnolol and honokiol also effectively help fight and inhibit activation of NF-KB, a key facilitator in the processes of aging and chronic inflammation. However, with age, the immune system becomes less effective and inflammatory activity increases. This can lead to chronic inflammation characterized by slow but continuous production of free radicals which in turn cause wrinkles and sagging of the skin. In skin care products, Magnolia bark extract helps repair fine lines and the start of wrinkles. It also helps prevent the formation of new skin cells by increasing the resistance of skin cells to external stress and inflammation. It also has antioxidant and antibacterial properties, which help neutralize free radicals and slow down the aging process.
- Caprylyl glycol : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics anti-wrinkle cream .
- Cetearyl glucoside : Analyzed in the Decléor Harmonie Calm eye contour .
- Lysine hydrochloride : Analyzed in Filorga serum as Lysine HCL.
- Dimethylmethoxy chromanol : Analyzed in the eye contour of Nutreplus .
- Tocopheryl acetate : Analyzed in Clarins Men’s wrinkle cream as Tocopherol Acetate.
- Ethylhexylglycerin : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics anti-wrinkle cream .
- Tripeptide-9 citrulline : Peptide with skin care properties, reduces DNA damage resulting from fenton reaction products and reduces metal formation. Together with water, propanediol, lysine HCl, lecithin, and phenoxyethanol (present in this formula) they form the ingredient dGlyage, which acts as an anti-aging and protective agent. It reduces the glycation of DNA and chelates transition metals that catalyze different reactions producing various DNA lesions.
- Lecithin : Analyzed in the Fiori di Cipria anti-wrinkle cream for men .
- Vitis Vinifera seed extract : Analyzed in the Caudiale Premier Cru eye contour .
- Tocopherol : Same as Tocopheryl acetate, discussed above.
- Maltodextrin : Tested in Lancaster’s Skin Therapy eye contour .
- Fructose : A type of sugar made up of glucose. It has water-repellent properties for the skin, attracts and retains moisture. In skin care products, it acts as a natural exfoliant, beneficial in controlling blemishes, and helps to restore the balance of the skin’s natural oils. The natural glycolic acid in sugar not only helps condition and hydrate the skin, it protects it from pollutants and toxins.
- Propanediol : Tested in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Contour .
- Palmitoyl hydroxypropyltrimonium amylopectin / glycerin crosspolymer : Little information is available on this compound. It is known as an emollient and skin conditioning agent, used to act as a lubricant on the surface of the skin and give the skin a smooth and smooth appearance. As it has glycerin, it also acts as a moisturizer and lubricant.
- Polysorbate 20 : Tested on the Clinique Smart contour .
- Hydrogenated lecithin : Tested in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Contour .
- BHT : Tested in Shiseido Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate : A naturally occurring chelating agent that enhances the efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants and plays a crucial role in the stability and efficacy of personal skin care products.
- Parfum .
Endocare Cellage Cream Prodermis review summary
With an ingredient list that looks more like a witch’s concoction than a cosmetic INCI, this is how the Endocare option is presented.
In the first ingredient we already find the extract of snail eggs (what we read above as IFC-CAF). We are used to snail slime extract, but not so much eggs. Likewise, it is a good regenerating ingredient, and in a very good proportion.
A little further down we find the second patented ingredient, the Wharton Gel Complex, or umbilical cord extract, rich in stem cells.
And followed by RetinSphere technology. We are very happy to see that retinoids are being innovated, achieving their properties, but without the irritating side effects.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a very promising ingredient, but sadly it has not yet been fully demonstrated.
Another interesting ingredient is the peptide that can reduce DNA glaciation, although it is too low on the list, as are other anti-inflammatories, vitamins and antioxidants.
The jarring note is put by several irritating ingredients, and a toxic preservative.
Alternative
With a less original formula, but full of anti-aging active ingredients, the Nezeni Cosmetics option is still my favorite as a dermatologist-recommended cream.
The assets are in a high proportion, and their benefits are more visible and effective. And without irritating or toxic ingredients to spoil the formula.
Kathie Sand always saw the world of beauty as the terrain on which to build her professional career, a goal that was clear to her when she was only 15 years old. Her great concern to expand knowledge led her to settle in Paris where she studied hand in hand with the best beauty professionals and with the most advanced techniques for skin care.