Within the process that I am following of analyzing anti-wrinkle creams for men, it is the turn of this product from L’Oreal Men Expert.
It is an anti-aging moisturizer that has been recently updated. We are going to analyze the new INCI and we are going to explain what the brand has added, and what has been left along the way, to see if this update is more or less beneficial for our skin.
After reading this article, I recommend that you read this one with an Analysis of the Best Anti-Wrinkle and Anti-Aging Creams for Men . Especially the part after the analysis of the creams, which explains differences between the skin of men and women (which does not exist at a cosmetic level), how to read an INCI, better ingredients that a cream should have, etc.
So let’s go with the analysis of this cream from L’Oreal Men Expert.
- Dimethicone : Tested in Shiseido Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Glycerin : Tested in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride : Tested in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Alcohol Denat : Tested in Shiseido Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate: Acts as an anti-caking agent, a viscosity-increasing agent (resistance to flow), and an absorbent. Used in products such as lotion, powder and makeup, mainly for aesthetic purposes. For example, it can prevent foundation from sticking to skin, or lessen the greasy shine associated with certain lotions. It has also been shown to improve the SPF factor in various sunscreens. In fact, just a 5% concentration can increase the SPF of titanium dioxide by 40%. This ingredient has been evaluated as safe to use in cosmetic products, provided that already established limitations on certain concentrations of heavy metals are not exceeded. Although aluminum is considered neurotoxic, studies have revealed that there is no evidence of toxicity from this ingredient.
- Peg-100 Stearate : Analyzed in the Powder Flowers anti-wrinkle cream .
- Glyceryl Stearate : Tested in Powder Blossoms anti-wrinkle cream .
- Butyrospermum Parkii Butter / Shea Butter : Tested in ClarinsMen’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate : An emulsion stabilizer and viscosity increasing agent. It absorbs sebum or oil, giving the skin a matte appearance and possibly increasing moisture. No studies were found listing negative side effects, although ammonia can be considered toxic in high concentrations, and it may be a factor in the use of this ingredient.
- Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract / Grape Seed Extract : Tested in the Clinique Smart eye contour.
- Mentha Piperita Extract / Peppermint Extract : Works as a skin conditioning agent, may have beneficial properties, but may also have a sensitizing effect on the skin.
- C12-13 Pareth-23 : It is a synthetic compound derived from petroleum and ethylene oxide that is used as a surfactant in a variety of cosmetics and skin care products, it is also used as an emulsifier. No studies were found reporting negative side effects of this ingredient. However, ethylene oxide is considered highly toxic and was even used as a component of nerve gas in WWII, but it is unclear if it should warrant any concern when used in this ingredient.
- C12-13 Pareth-3 : Same as above.
- Stearic Acid : Analyzed in the Fiori di Cipria anti-wrinkle cream .
- Isobutane : Analyzed in Kiehl’s Vitamin C Serum.
- Dimethiconol : Works as a skin conditioner, antifoam agent, and emollient. As a heavier silicone, it is often used in conjunction with lighter silicones that help deliver it better to the skin / hair, such as cyclopentasiloxane.
Due to the high molecular weight of silicone-based polymers like dimethiconol, it would be highly unlikely to penetrate beyond the surface of the foot. - Sodium Hydroxide : Analyzed in the Fiori di Cipria anti-wrinkle cream .
- Silica: Used for skin care due to its ability to serve as an abrasive agent (peels), anti-caking agent, bulking agent, opacifying agent, and suspending agent. However, it is most often thought of as an absorbent, due to its ability to absorb moisture and sweat. It can be considered a low to high risk ingredient, depending on its use, and bases this conclusion on the distinction between amorphous and crystalline silica. Amorphous silica is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is generally not carcinogenic, while crystalline silica is linked to various health risks, including cancer, allergies, and organ system toxicity. Crystalline Silica is a known respiratory, musculoskeletal and immune system toxicant,
- Myristic Acid : Analyzed in the Fiori di Cipria anti-wrinkle cream .
- Divinyldimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer : It is a synthetic silicone, siloxane polymer that is used to form a film that makes the skin appear softer.
- Cyclodextrin : Analyzed in Lancome’s tonic .
- Palmitic Acid : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Ascorbyl Glucoside : Stable form of vitamin C combined with glucose. When properly formulated and absorbed into the skin, it breaks down into ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C). It works as an antioxidant and works well with other replenishing ingredients and antioxidants to preserve the key substances your skin needs to look smoother, brighter, and younger. It’s a good form of vitamin C to consider, although as with any ingredient, your skin will get the most benefits from a mix of great ingredients rather than concentrating on just one, in the hope that it will do it all.
- Disodium Edta : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Caprylyl Glycol : Analyzed in the Youth Eye Complex from iS Clinical .
- Citric Acid : Analizado en la cream antiarrugas Powder Flowers .
- Xanthan Gum: Used as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifying surfactant, as well as an agent that increases aqueous viscosity in cosmetics and personal care products due to its ability to retain water, enhance freezing -establish stability, and improve shelf life and help with stabilization of a product. A polysaccharide derived from glucose or sucrose (sugars), it is capable of increasing the viscosity of liquids even when used at less than 1% concentration. It is also believed to have skin conditioning properties. Although it is not considered an emulsifier, it prevents oil separation in formulas and helps to suspend particles. It also thickens the formulas and keeps them homogeneous in their containers. Despite the use of bacteria during processing, Xanthan gum itself is generally not harmful to human skin or digestive systems, although some people may find they are allergic to it. People with allergies may experience intestinal discomfort, diarrhea, temporary high blood pressure, and migraine headaches, although these symptoms are generally believed to occur after ingestion, not topical application.
- Pentylene Glycol : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics anti-wrinkle cream .
- Pisum Sativum Extract / Pea Extract : Contains phytonutrients, which have the ability to promote vitality and health in the skin. Pea extract is rich in protein and also contains essential amino acids, calcium, iron, and potassium. In addition, this extract contains vitamin B6, folic acid and vitamin C, all three are excellent for counteracting the damage and inflammation of free radicals that drain elastin proteins and collagen from the skin.
- Acrylonitrile / Methyl Methacrylate / Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer : Analyzed in Kiehl’s Vitamin C serum.
- Cetyl Alcohol: Works as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener and carrier agent for other ingredients contained in a cosmetic solution. It prevents the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating and provides good spreadability of the products. As a thickening agent and surfactant, it helps alter viscosity and increases the foaming ability of non-aqueous (ie, lotions) and aqueous (ie, shampoo) solutions. It is often misinterpreted as an “alcohol” related to ethyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol, which can be extremely dry on the skin. The truth is, in fact, quite the opposite, as cetyl alcohol is well known for effectively conditioning and smoothing skin and hair. Due to its multifunctional capabilities, This ingredient is used in a wide range of personal care products such as moisturizer, face cream, shampoo / conditioner, anti-aging treatment, hair dye. Many dermatologists recommend that people with sensitive / irritated skin avoid it.
- Retinyl Palmitate: It belongs to the family of chemical compounds known as retinoids and is one of the most important vitamins for the appearance of the skin due to its small molecular structures. These small molecules have the ability to penetrate the outer layers of the skin and work to repair the lower layers where collagen and elastin reside. It is a controversial ingredient due to potential side effects including cancer, reproductive and developmental toxicity, violations, restrictions and warnings, changes in the cellular level, and organ system toxicity. Retinyl palmitate has been shown to produce excess reactive oxygen species that can interfere with cell signaling, cause mutations, lead to cell death and may be implicated in cardiovascular disease. It has caused reproductive effects at low doses in one or more animal studies, and there is limited evidence of cancer and skin toxicity, although it has been shown to be readily absorbed through the skin. It is considered a mild ingredient and there are very few irritation warnings. However, as it is converted to retinol in the skin, it is important to note that retinol (along with tretinoin) can cause serious skin reactions, such as peeling, redness, peeling, itching, and burning. It is also known to cause thinning of the skin and therefore should not be used in conjunction with waxing. Because retinol greatly increases the risk of extreme sunburn, care must be taken (shade, sunscreen, etc. ) to protect the treated skin from overexposure to UV light. Reviewing data from several studies on a possible link between retinyl palmitate and cancer risks. The National Toxicology Program published a report in January 2011 based on a mouse study, concluding that retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid become carcinogenic in sunlight. The EWG subsequently issued a statement recommending that manufacturers remove Retinyl Palmitate from all products used on sun-exposed skin. According to FDA scientists, retinyl palmitate degrades in sunlight to photomutagenic compounds, forming free radicals in the presence of UVA and UVB radiation. Reviewing data from several studies on a possible link between retinyl palmitate and cancer risks. The National Toxicology Program published a report in January 2011 based on a mouse study, concluding that retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid become carcinogenic in sunlight. The EWG subsequently issued a statement recommending that manufacturers remove Retinyl Palmitate from all products used on sun-exposed skin. According to FDA scientists, retinyl palmitate degrades in sunlight to photomutagenic compounds, forming free radicals in the presence of UVA and UVB radiation. Reviewing data from several studies on a possible link between retinyl palmitate and cancer risks. The National Toxicology Program published a report in January 2011 based on a mouse study, concluding that retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid become carcinogenic in sunlight. The EWG subsequently issued a statement recommending that manufacturers remove Retinyl Palmitate from all products used on sun-exposed skin. According to FDA scientists, retinyl palmitate degrades in sunlight to photomutagenic compounds, forming free radicals in the presence of UVA and UVB radiation. The National Toxicology Program published a report in January 2011 based on a mouse study, concluding that retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid become carcinogenic in sunlight. The EWG subsequently issued a statement recommending that manufacturers remove Retinyl Palmitate from all products used on sun-exposed skin. According to FDA scientists, retinyl palmitate degrades in sunlight to photomutagenic compounds, forming free radicals in the presence of UVA and UVB radiation. The National Toxicology Program published a report in January 2011 based on a mouse study, concluding that retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid become carcinogenic in sunlight. The EWG subsequently issued a statement recommending that manufacturers remove Retinyl Palmitate from all products used on sun-exposed skin. According to FDA scientists, retinyl palmitate degrades in sunlight to photomutagenic compounds, forming free radicals in the presence of UVA and UVB radiation.
- Tocopherol : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate : Tested in Kiehl’s Facial Fuel anti-wrinkle cream .
- Phenoxyethanol : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Linalool : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Limonene : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Hexyl Cinnamal : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Benzyl Alcohol : Tested in Nuxellence de Nuxe eye contour .
- Benzyl Salicylate : Analyzed in Collistar’s wrinkle cream .
- Parfum / Fragrance .
Index
Summary analysis Vita Lift Anti-Aging Moisturizing Cream by L’Oréal Men Expert
L’Oreal has scrapped its old Vita Lift formula, and replaced it with a better one. And he said better because the first thing we can see is that it has eliminated the parabens . It is something that all cosmetic brands should do, remove parabens.
No matter the proportions they use, they say they are within the law, never and I repeat NEVER have the combined effect of applying several creams to the skin in the same day.
It is known that parabens are HARMFUL, I leave you an article so that you know what I am talking about, please read it to them and every time you buy some type of cosmetic, check if it has parabens to discard it.
So good for L’Oreal!
But they are not the only ingredients they have ruled out. They have done a good cleaning of silicones that were in a high concentration (some were even mild irritants), they have removed an amine (pH adjuster), a clay, a polymer (which can cause irritation in some people) and some controversial preservatives.
We can say that practically everything that has been removed caused some damage to the skin. That is the way to go.
But the new formula also keeps many of the ingredients that were, and includes some new ones.
As new additions are grape seed extract , with high antioxidant capacities that repair and protect the skin from oxidants; the vitamin E , another powerful antioxidant, but at a low rate.
Also isobutane and Acrylonitrile / Methyl Methacrylate / Vinylidene Chloride Copolymer, which together improve the feeling on the skin, making the formulas more comfortable and soft. Another pH adjuster they have included is sodium hydroxide, which causes eye and skin irritation. Although in low proportion, but the risk is there.
But if you look at the top 5 ingredients on the list, things haven’t changed that much. Silicone remains the queen of the composition, which as an occlusive retains the moisture of the epidermis well, although it has a cumulative effect and can become comedogenic for some skin types.
There are a couple of emollients, and an additive, alcohol. It’s a bit contradictory, because alcohol is a drying ingredient, and it is in a high proportion. In addition, it can irritate some skin, especially the most sensitive.
That is, there are no assets in high proportions, something very typical of the brand. What there are are many ingredients and several irritants. One is the peppermint extract, and there are also many synthetic fragrances and perfume.
They could have put the shea butter higher, along with the grape seed extract, the vitamin C derivative, the pea extract, and the retinoid. In short, they have improved the formula, but they could have done much better.
It is still a highly recommended product due to all its irritating and harmful ingredients, as its long-term use can cause problems.
Alternative Creams
If you want results, you need to learn how to analyze INCIs, I personally use Nezeni Cosmetics now, and you can find out why in the article on the best anti-wrinkle creams on the market.
It is a unisex cream, because it does not make sense to buy for men and that they charge us more or the cream is worse.
Kathie Sand always saw the world of beauty as the terrain on which to build her professional career, a goal that was clear to her when she was only 15 years old. Her great concern to expand knowledge led her to settle in Paris where she studied hand in hand with the best beauty professionals and with the most advanced techniques for skin care.