Sesderma wants to prevent and correct the main signs of skin aging in all skin types. To do this, it uses its 3-Retinol System of sustained release, along with hyaluronic acid and the growth factor TGF-2.
To see if it fulfills all that it claims, I am going to analyze all its ingredients, and see in what proportions they are.
If you want to discover more about eye contours and their ingredients, I advise you to take a look at the article Best Eye Contours , in which I do an analysis of the most well-known contours, and I talk about how to apply it, how to read a INCI, and much more.
Sesderma Eye Contour Reti Age Analysis
- Caprylic / capric Triglyceride : Tested in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Isostearyl Isostearate : The ester of isopropyl alcohol and isostearic acid. It is used in beauty products as an emollient agent, skin conditioner, binder, and moisturizer. It helps lock in moisture and gives skin a smooth feeling, and acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface to give it a silky smooth appearance.
- Propanediol : Tested in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Contour .
- Pentylene Glycol : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics anti-wrinkle cream .
- Glyceryl Stearate : Analyzed in Fiori di Cipria’s anti-wrinkle cream for men .
- PEG-100 Stearate : Analyzed in Fiori di Cipria’s anti-wrinkle cream for men .
- Propylene Glycol : Tested in Shiseido Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Glycerin : Tested in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Cetearyl Alcohol : Tested in Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Eye Contour.
- Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract : Tested in Lancaster Contour Skin Therapy .
- Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract : Analyzed in Clinique Smart contour .
- Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 : A synthetic or plant peptide that helps increase the natural production of support substances that skin needs to look younger and feel firmer. It is sold under the trade name Chronoline.
- Ascorbyl Glucoside : Analyzed in L’Oreal’s Vita Lift 5 anti-wrinkle cream .
- Retinol : Research clearly shows that retinol, the technical name for vitamin A, has amazing anti-aging benefits for the skin. Products with Retinol can help visibly diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, increase the appearance of firmness, improve uneven skin tone, smooth and refine the skin’s surface, and help mitigate the effects of environmental stressors. All forms of retinol break down when exposed to air and light, so make sure the product is packaged in an airtight, opaque container.
- Castanea Sativa Seed Extract : Chestnut seed extract that has high concentrations of antioxidants such as rutin and quercetrin. Provides skin protection by neutralizing harmful free radicals that are present in the environment.
- Pterostilbene : It is extracted from the Pterocarpus marsupium tree and has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and lightening properties. Pterostilbene is a close cousin and structural analog of resveratrol. Compared to resveratrol, pterostilbene is better absorbed, and it is more biologically active; it is chemically and metabolically more stable; better reduces anti-inflammatory markers; and offers 5-10 times more antimicrobial benefits. Also, it is more effective in inhibiting pro-inflammatory enzymes in vitro. It has also been found to protect the skin from damage caused by UV radiation.
- Glycine Soja Protein : Tested in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Contour as Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract.
- Superoxide Dismutase : Antioxidant found naturally in the body. It acts as an antioxidant defense in almost all cells exposed to oxygen, such as skin cells. Superoxide Dismutase protects the cell from superoxide toxicity (the most common free radical in the body) and therefore prevents wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, aids in wound healing, softens scar tissue , protects against UV rays, and reduces other signs of aging.
- Alpha-Arbutin : A natural skin lightening and whitening agent, although it is not yet clear how much Arbutin is needed to inhibit melanin production. The general consensus is that it works as a skin lightening agent and appears to be a promising alternative to pure hydroquinone. Arbutin appears to be less irritating than hydroquinone when used in similar concentrations. It also causes less sensitivity to the sun.
- Retinyl Propionate : Not only is retinol propionate a more tolerable form of vitamin A, it may even be better. The P&G research lab conducted a 12-week study comparing retinol and retinyl propionate, both applied in conjunction with sunscreen. Those who used retinyl propionate and sunscreen showed a significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and sun spots without irritation. In contrast, the combination of retinol and sunscreen appeared to exacerbate skin irritation and decrease skin benefits.
- Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics Contour as Sodium Hyaluronate.
- Retinal : A powerful form of Vitamin A with anti-aging benefits, including reducing hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. This form is less irritating than other derivatives of the vitamin.
- Zinc Chloride : Zinc Chloride has a strong affinity for moisture and will absorb a relatively large amount of water from the atmosphere, forming a liquid solution.
- Camphanediol and Pinanediol : Support the natural production of nitric oxide to accelerate blood circulation, improving localized microcirculation to reduce the appearance of dark circles.
- Ergothioneine : Tested in the Clinique Smart contour .
- Nicotiana Benthamiana SH-TGF-Beta2 : TGF-2 growth factor with two identical polypeptide chains linked by a single disulfide bond. It is produced by transient expression in Nicotiana benthamiana plants. By these growth factors in the skin, it is possible to stop and slow down the skin aging process, and increase the production of elastin and collagen.
- Triethanolamine : Analyzed in L’Oreal’s Vita Lift 5 anti-wrinkle cream .
- Lecithin : Analyzed in Fiori di Cipria’s anti-wrinkle cream for men .
- Alcohol : Tested in Shiseido Benefiance WrinkleResist24 Contour .
- Carbomer : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics anti-wrinkle cream .
- Ethylhexylglycerin : Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics anti-wrinkle cream .
- Polysorbate 20 : Tested on Clinique Smart contour .
- Sodium Cholate : Sodium cholate is a bile acid produced in the liver during the breakdown of cholesterol. Cholate, an anionic detergent, is used alone and in combination with urea to extract and reconstitute membrane proteins and protein complexes.
- Disodium EDTA : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Dextran : Tested on Clarins Multi-Intensive Contour .
- Butylene Glycol : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Sodium Chloride : Tested in Nuxellence contour from Nuxe .
- Potassium Sorbate : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Sodium Hydroxide : Analyzed in Fiori di Cipria’s anti-wrinkle cream for men .
- Sodium Benzoate : Analyzed in Nuxellence contour from Nuxe .
- Bht : Analyzed in Shiseido Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Bha : Analyzed in Mercadona’s Sisbela outline .
- CI17200 : Tested in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Contour as Iron Oxides.
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil : Tested in Shiseido Men’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream .
- Potassium Dextran Sulfate : It is a potassium salt derived from an ester of sulfuric acid. It is used in skin care to control the viscosity of a formulation.
- Tromethamine : Tested in Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Contour .
- Hydrochloric Acid : Highly irritating hydrochloric acid.
- Phenoxyethanol : Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
- Fragrance .
- Geraniol : Analyzed in Decléor’s Harmonie Calm contour .
Sesderma Eye Contour Reti Age Analysis Summary
A very complete contour, with many active ingredients, most of them located in the upper-middle part of the list. It has most of the best anti-aging ingredients: retinol (vitamin A), hyaluronic acid, peptides, growth factors, Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Beta-Hydroxy-Acids.
It also includes ginkgo, ergothionein and arbutin, so in addition to reducing wrinkles and fine lines, it lightens dark spots and acts as an antioxidant. As you can see, it is very complete.
The problem is usually that many ingredients indicate very low proportions, since think that for a cream to be fluid and to add so many ingredients that are usually powders, in the end a very low% of each of the active principles is required, therefore they do not act with the same efficiency as if they were fewer ingredients and with higher proportions.
In addition to alcohols and fragrance, among its ingredients I am specifically concerned about two things: the first is hydrochloric acid (at a very low concentration) that appears at the end of the list; and on the other hand the combination of Sodium Benzoate and vitamin C, which can create benzene, a carcinogen.
Although it has quite good ingredients, to heal in health, better to use contours with no suspicious ingredients, such as Nezeni Cosmetics. It also has a lot of active ingredients, and we save ourselves the doubts.
Kathie Sand always saw the world of beauty as the terrain on which to build her professional career, a goal that was clear to her when she was only 15 years old. Her great concern to expand knowledge led her to settle in Paris where she studied hand in hand with the best beauty professionals and with the most advanced techniques for skin care.