Shiseido Men Deep Wrinkle Corrector – Analysis And Alternatives

Today I bring a complete INCI analysis of this anti-wrinkle product, as you know I don’t get wet a lot with anyone and that is why I analyze each product on a more technical level, then I see if I like or not the ingredients it has and an alternative

After reading this article, I recommend that you read this one with an  Analysis of the Best Anti-Wrinkle and Anti-Aging Creams for Men . Especially the part after the analysis of the creams, which explains differences between the skin of men and women (which does not exist at a cosmetic level), how to read an INCI, better ingredients that a cream should have, etc.

So let’s go with the analysis of this Shiseido cream.

INCI Shiseido Men Deep Wrinkle Corrector Analysis

• Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate: Non-aqueous ester  that functions as a thickener and binding agent, derived from the ingredient isostearic acid.
• Glycerin:  Analyzed in  wrinkle cream ClarinsMen. .
• Butylene Glycol:  Analyzed in  ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream. .
• Dipropylene glycol: It is most often used as a solvent in a wide variety of industries and products, but in cosmetics it has also found use as a fragrance, masking agent, and in controlling the viscosity of a formulation.
  Dipropylene glycol has been shown to be of low toxicity, but it is an active irritant to the skin and eye area. Despite the irritating properties of this ingredient, it is used in such low concentrations in most products that it would have little impact. Studies show that this ingredient is minimally toxic when consumed and there is little evidence of sensitization. Here we find it in 5 place, so that would be worrying.
• Alcohol Denat:  Has a variety of purposes in cosmetics. It acts as an antifoam agent, astringent, antimicrobial agent and solvent. It also helps deliver the active ingredients of a product.
  People with dry skin may want to avoid using this ingredient, as alcohol has a tendency to strip the skin of its natural oils.
• Xylitol: It is used in cosmetics and personal care products not only as a flavoring agent in oral care products, which also use its plaque reducing properties, but also as a humectant in other formulations. It is believed to help the skin retain its natural moisture and increase levels of hyaluronic acid, a natural lubricant that aids in the production of collagen. Xylitol is also believed to improve the skin’s barrier function and increase the synthesis of ceramide (a natural moisturizing compound).
  As a low-risk ingredient, with moderate concerns resulting from animal studies showing broad systemic, brain, and nervous system effects at high doses. When ingested in large quantities, it can have a laxative effect, as do all sucrose and sucrose substitutes.
• Dimethicone: A silicone-based polymer. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane. One of the most used ingredients in cosmetics, it works as an antifoam agent, skin protector, and skin and hair conditioner: it prevents water loss by forming a moisturizing barrier on the skin. Like most silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily extensible. When applied to the skin, it is known to create a subtle glow that feels smooth and silky to the touch. It also acts as a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin, and can fill in fine lines / wrinkles on the face, giving it a temporary “plump” appearance.
• Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil:  Edible, non-aromatic vegetable oil originally developed as an agricultural crop in the 1950s. It works as an emollient and softening agent in skin and hair care products. This vegetable oil is extremely stable because it is composed mainly of long chain fatty acids.
• Erythritol: Jungbunzlauer patented moisturizer  to stop or prevent aging at the cellular level, activators and anti-aging agents have been sought after. Known examples of animal derived activators include connective tissue hydrolysis, water soluble protein derived from thymus and spleen, and bovine placental essence. Known examples of plant derived activators include sesame, Chinese yam, pepper, angelica acutiloba, houttuyni.
• PEG / PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether:  It is a copolymer produced by the interaction of 14 moles of ethylene oxide with 7 moles of propylene oxide blocked at its end with dimethyl ether. Its function is as a skin conditioning agent.
• PPG-17:  It is a propylene oxide polymer used as a skin conditioning agent.
• Ammonium polyacrylate:  They are very large copolymers and polymers that are prepared from relatively small chemical compounds called monomers. For all of these ingredients, the monomers used include acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, or one of the salts or esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid. Except for dermal irritation, they are not significantly toxic.
• Phenoxyethanol:  Analyzed in ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream.
• Hydrogenated polyisobutene:  Analyzed in  ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream .
• Behenyl Alcohol: An emulsifier that also prevents the liquid and oil parts of a solution from separating. Its other functions include altering the thickness of a liquid, increasing the foamability and stabilizing foams. When applied to the skin, it feels smooth and helps prevent moisture loss. Many products incorporate this ingredient due to its unique sensory properties and non-greasy feel after application. It is primarily used in face / body creams and lotions, but can also be found in deodorant, lipstick, and foundation. It has antiviral properties and is used to treat herpes (under the name 1-docosonal). Animal testing has established that behenyl alcohol is not a reproductive toxin. May cause skin irritation.
• PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: Hydrogenated castor  oil is a surfactant, it helps water mix with oil and dirt so they can be rinsed off, leaving skin and hair clean.
• Fragrance.
• PEG-40 Castor Oil:  According to a study published in the International Journal of Toxicology, PEGs (including PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil) may contain harmful impurities, including: ethylene oxide, known to increase the incidence of uterine and breast cancers and of leukemia and brain cancer, based on experimental results reported by the Program National Toxicology; 1,4-dioxane, a known carcinogen; PAH, known to increase the risk of breast cancer; lead; iron; and arsenic. Products and formulas containing PEG should not be used on broken or irritated skin. Although PEGs are considered safe for topical use on healthy skin, studies showed that patients who suffered severe burns were treated with PEG-based antimicrobial cream; this treatment resulted in kidney toxicity. “The PEG content of the antimicrobial cream was determined to be the causative agent.
• Retinyl acetate:  Improve the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring flexibility. These ingredients also improve the look and feel of hair, by increasing hair body, flexibility or shine, or by improving the texture of hair that has been physically or chemically damaged.
• Stearyl Alcohol:  It is a natural fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid, coconut oil, or vegetable fatty acids, and is used for smoothing and smoothing as a conditioning and emulsifying agent. Stearyl alcohol is a low-risk ingredient, despite cancer, irritation, and organ system toxicity, and strong evidence that it is a human irritant. One or more animal studies show tumor formation at high doses. However, the high doses that caused tumors to form are much higher than those found in cosmetics and personal care products.
• Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil: It is a mixture of fatty acids derived from sunflower seed oil. It supplies more vitamin E than any other vegetable oil. It is used primarily as a skin cleansing and conditioning agent.
• Polyquaternium-51:   It is a phospholipid copolymer that improves the moisture-holding capacity of the epidermis, and also serves as a natural barrier against additional water loss from the skin, in part by forming a protective film on the epidermis .
• BHT:  It is a very controversial preservative, there are studies that associate it with cancer and others with that it delays cancer, so it is difficult to determine if it is good or bad.
• Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer: Used as a stabilizer, to increase the viscosity of a product and form a film when applied topically. During the polymerization process, which is done in alkyl acrylate to produce this ingredient, benzene is often used as the solvent. Benzene is highly carcinogenic, toxic, dangerous for the environment and is an irritant.
• Trisodium EDTA:  It is a salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and is used in cosmetics and personal care products as a chelating agent with the ability to bind to metal ions. This property allows trisodium EDTA to help prevent formula spoilage, maintain clarity, protect fragrance compounds, and prevent rancidity. It is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, or carcinogen, although because these ingredients bind to metals necessary for normal cell division, some studies indicated that these compounds were weakly mutagenic.
• Sorbitan Oleate:  Although it is also seen as a surfactant and fragrance ingredient, it is primarily used as an emulsifier, and is especially suitable for formulations containing vegetable oils. It is considered a good co-emulsifier for lotions and other emulsions. It is a low-risk ingredient, although it appears as a possible carcinogen because studies have shown a cell mutation.
• Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate:  Analyzed in  wrinkle cream ClarinsMen. as Tocopherol Acetate.
• Alcohol.
• Arginine HCl: This ingredient works primarily as an antioxidant that helps build collagen production. It is used primarily in anti-aging face and body products such as lotions, night creams, and serums. As of yet, however, no studies can demonstrate the skin regeneration effects of  arginine  when applied topically to the skin. In fact, the most substantial evidence regarding the effects of topical amino acids on the skin comes from a  1989 study , which evaluated that they  can  help with hydration. There is evidence that arginine, taken by mouth, can accelerate wound healing.
• Linalool:  Analyzed in  ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream.
• Benzyl Benzoate: Tested  in  ClarinsMen’s Anti-Wrinkle Cream.
• Limonene:  Analyzed in  ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream.
• Citronellol:  It is a mixture of two isomers, both occur in nature. Citronellol is used in perfumes and insect repellants and as an attractant for mites.
• Butylphenyl Methylpropional:  Analyzed in  ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream. .
• Panax Ginseng Root Extract:  Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics cream.
• Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate:  Analyzed in Nezeni Cosmetics cream , it would have to be higher 🙂
• Chlorella Vulgaris Extract: A skin conditioning and protective agent has powerful anti-aging benefits, primarily because it is a rich source of carotenoids, a family of nutrients that, when ingested, are deposited on the skin and protect it from the damaging effects of UV rays (i.e. pigmentation, sunburn, cancer.) In fact, Korean researchers found that when lutein (a carotenoid) was extracted from  chlorella vulgaris, blocked the growth of human colon cancer cells. In some cases, a small concentration of 0.016% of stimulated collagen synthesis and concentrations of 0.4% strongly increased the density of the epidermal layer. Additionally, other studies have shown that it can increase skin firmness, significantly reduce the appearance of stretch marks, and be particularly helpful in treating any skin tissue that is suffering from physical aggression (i.e. pregnancy, sunbathing). Too bad it is so low in the INCI.
• Tocopherol:  Analyzed in  ClarinsMen’s anti-wrinkle cream.
• Beta Carotene:  It is a natural carotenoid pigment found in many fruits and vegetables. Beta-carotene is a precursor to vitamin A and can be synthesized from it. Beta-carotene used in cosmetics and personal care products is made synthetically or obtained from natural sources.

Shiseido Men Deep Wrinkle Corrector analysis summary

If we look at the first ingredients that appear in the INCI, we have Glycerin as an active principle, which although it is a good asset is very cheap and quite common. The rest of the first 6 are ingredients that do not contribute to the skin, but to the cream itself (solvents, emollients, alcohols). Then we have the seed oil and Erythritol, which are good active ingredients.

The problem is that we find a lot of alcohols, the fragrance too high. Next we have retinol to improve dry skin. The rest of the active principles are too far behind in the INCI and therefore the% is very low, including the famous hyaluronic acid is one of the last.

So taking into account the set of carcinogenic ingredients in higher proportions, remembering the problem of the combined effect that several creams could have on our skin, I explain it in the other article of the best anti-wrinkle creams for men that I told you at the beginning.

Alternative Creams

As we are talking about a supposed high-end at the price level, my current recommendation is to use the Nezeni Cosmetics cream, in my case it is the one I currently use and I give the reasons why in the article of the best anti-wrinkle creams on the market.

If you are outside of Spain, which many people ask me, I would use the Clarins brand, whether you want ClarinsMen’s, although as I explained in the other article I would throw more at “woman” creams because it makes no sense to buy for men and that they charge us more or the cream is worse. All my life I have used Clarins although unfortunately they are not very cheap.